RV Holding Tank Struvite Cleaning: The Deep-Clean Your RV Tanks Actually Need

WARNING: This article contains graphic images and videos of RV tank buildup. But if you own an RV, you NEED to see this.

Look, I’ve been pumping RV tanks across the Treasure Valley for years, and I’m going to level with you: your RV’s holding tanks are probably disgusting. Even if you’re religious about flushing, use all the right treatments, and never smell a thing—there’s likely a crusty layer of crystallized waste coating everything inside those tanks.

It’s called struvite, and I see it in nearly every RV we service. Last month I pulled up to a gorgeous 2019 Grand Design at the Nampa fairgrounds. Owner swore the tanks were clean. “I flush after every trip, use Happy Campers, the works.” Twenty minutes into the pressure wash, we’d filled three five-gallon buckets with what looked like yellowish gravel. That’s struvite. And that’s why we built a specialized service using the same industrial equipment we use on 1,500-gallon septic tanks—because your little RV flush wand isn’t cutting it.

What is Struvite? (And Why It’s Disgusting)

The Science:

Struvite (magnesium ammonium phosphate) is a crystalline mineral deposit that forms in RV holding tanks when:

• Urine (high in phosphate and ammonium)
• Magnesium (from hard water and some RV treatments)
• Alkaline pH (from toilet chemicals and time)

…combine and crystallize into a rock-hard, cement-like substance that sticks to tank walls, sensors, valves, and anything else it touches.

What It Looks Like:

Here’s what I pull out of “clean” tanks every week:

• Color: Yellowish-white to dark brown/black (older buildup looks like tar)
• Texture: Crusty, crystalline, cement-like—I’ve literally chipped it off with a putty knife
• Smell: Pungent ammonia mixed with sewage (you’ll never forget your first whiff)
• Location: Tank walls, sensors, baffles, valves, hose connections

Think of it like: That hardwater scale in your water heater, except it’s made of crystallized urine and waste. Yeah. We see this in $200,000 diesel pushers owned by retired doctors who maintain their rigs meticulously. Struvite doesn’t discriminate.

The Problem: Normal RV Tank Flushing DOESN’T Remove Struvite

What Most RVers Do:

✅ Use RV tank flush wand after dumping ✅ Run “tank rinse” systems built into RV ✅ Add enzyme or bacteria treatments ✅ Dump when tank is 2/3 full (proper technique)

Result: Clear water comes out. Sensors might work. No smell. Tank seems clean.

Reality: Struvite doesn’t care. It’s CRYSTALLIZED MINERAL. It doesn’t dissolve with water. Enzymes don’t touch it. Bacteria can’t eat it. Flush wands spray around it.

The Evidence:

After 2-5 years of “proper” RV tank maintenance, here’s what we routinely find:

• 1/4” to 3/4” thick struvite coating on tank walls (that’s like wearing a sweater made of sewage rocks)
• Completely encased tank sensors (this is why your panel always reads full or empty—sensors are buried)
• Half-blocked dump valves (slow draining, incomplete emptying—takes 10 minutes instead of 2)
• Clogged tank flush inlets (your flush system is just spraying water at a crusty wall)
• 30-40% lost tank capacity (your 50-gallon tank now holds 30-35 gallons max)

I had a full-timer couple at Anderson Camp near Boise—lived in their fifth wheel year-round. Sensors hadn’t worked in three years. They assumed it was broken electronics and had gotten quotes for $800 in sensor replacement. We pressure washed their black tank and pulled out what looked like fifteen pounds of gravel. Sensors? Worked perfectly after cleaning. They were just buried under crystallized waste.

You don’t have a holding tank problem. You have a struvite problem.

Related: If you’re dealing with basic RV maintenance, check out our mobile RV pump-out service for routine tank emptying without the deep-clean intensity.

Watch What We Remove From “Clean” RV Tanks

Video 1: Black Tank Struvite Removal (WARNING: Graphic)

What you’ll see:

• Pressure washer blasting 3/4” struvite layer off tank walls
• Chunks of crystallized waste flowing out (looks like gravel)
• Before/after sensor readings (from “full” to actually accurate)

(Note: These videos get millions of views because they’re both horrifying and satisfying)

Common comment: “I’ve owned my RV for 8 years. Never knew my tanks looked like this inside.”

Video 2: Grey Tank Struvite (Yes, Grey Tanks Get It Too)

What you’ll see:

• Soap scum + minerals = grey-tank struvite (different color, same cement-like texture)
• Coating around tank sensors (why grey tank always reads wrong)
• Hair, grease, and soap combined with mineral deposits

Video 3: Sensor Cleaning Close-Up

What you’ll see:

• Tank sensors before (encased in 1/2” crust)
• Pressure cleaning process
• Sensors after (shiny and functional)
• Testing sensors (actually work correctly now!)

Video 4: Complete RV Tank Restoration (Bonus)

What you’ll see:

• Full service from start to finish
• Multiple tanks being cleaned in sequence
• Professional equipment and techniques
• Customer satisfaction and results

Pro Tip: These videos demonstrate why DIY flush wands can’t achieve these results. The pressure, volume, and technique matter.

Wondering about dumping RV waste at home? Before you consider home disposal options, read our comprehensive guide on RV waste dumping into septic systems to understand the risks and proper procedures.

Qube Septic’s Industrial RV Tank Cleaning Service

What We Do DIFFERENTLY:

Most RV service centers offer “tank cleaning” that’s just:

• Dump tank
• Run flush wand for 5 minutes
• Maybe add enzyme treatment
• Charge $50-100

That’s not cleaning. That’s rinsing.

Look, I get it—dealerships aren’t equipped for this. They’ve got a consumer-grade pressure washer in the back and a 20-year-old flush wand. Our trucks carry the same industrial gear we use to clean 1,500-gallon residential septic tanks and municipal sewage systems. When we show up to an RV park storage lot or your driveway, we’re rolling in with 4,000 PSI of heated water and vacuum power that’ll suck a bowling ball through a garden hose. (We haven’t tested that. But we could.)

Our ACTUAL Industrial Process:

1. Complete Tank Evacuation

• Professional vacuum truck pumps tanks 100% dry
• Not gravity drain (leaves residual liquid and solids)
• Tank is EMPTY before cleaning begins

2. High-Pressure Hot Water Injection

• Industrial pressure washer: 3000-4000 PSI (not your garden hose)
• Heated water: 180-200°F (breaks down grease and organic matter)
• Rotating spray nozzle: Reaches all tank surfaces, not just bottom
• Chemical injection option: Struvite-dissolving agents for severe buildup

3. Mechanical Scrubbing (When Needed)

• For tanks with 1”+ struvite: Physical scraping may be needed
• Rotary tank cleaning tools (borrowed from septic tank cleaning industry)
• Not damaging to fiberglass/plastic tanks when done correctly

4. Vacuum Extraction of Loosened Material

• As struvite breaks loose, we vacuum it out
• Multiple cycles: Pressure wash → Vacuum → Repeat
• Continue until water evacuated is clean

5. Sensor Focus Cleaning

• Direct high-pressure spray on tank sensors
• Verify sensors are clean and functional
• Test sensor readings before we leave

6. Final Rinse & Inspection

• Fresh water rinse of entire tank
• Visual inspection via camera (we can document results)
• Confirm all drains and valves are clear

7. Sanitization (Optional Add-On)

• Bleach solution or RV-safe sanitizer
• Eliminates bacteria, odor-causing organisms
• Recommended for tanks with long-term odor issues

Equipment We Use:

Vacuum Truck:

• Same trucks we use for septic tanks (3000+ CFM suction)
• 500+ gallon waste capacity
• 100+ foot hoses (I’ve pumped RVs parked 200 feet from the street)

Pressure Washing System:

• Industrial hot water pressure washer
• 4000 PSI @ 4 GPM (consumer units max out at 2000 PSI—not even close)
• Heated water tank (propane or diesel fired)
• Variable pressure (we dial it down for fiberglass, crank it up for polyethylene)

Specialty Tools:

• Rotating spray nozzles (reaches tank ceiling, walls, corners—not just the bottom)
• Tank inspection cameras (I love showing customers the before/after footage)
• Sensor testing equipment
• Struvite-specific cleaning chemicals (when hot water alone won’t cut it)

Why it works: We use the same equipment and techniques to clean municipal sewage tanks, 10,000-gallon commercial grease traps, and industrial wastewater systems. Your RV’s 50-gallon black tank? That’s a Tuesday morning warmup for our gear.

I remember one summer weekend at the Western Idaho Fair—we cleaned twelve RVs parked in the vendor lot in one day. Our truck’s waste tank holds 500 gallons, so we could do multiple RVs before heading to the dump station. Dealerships can’t do that kind of volume. We’re mobile, we’re fast, and we come to you.

Who Needs Industrial RV Tank Cleaning?

✅ DEFINITELY Need It If:

Tank sensors don’t work:

• Always read full
• Always read empty
• Read opposite of reality
• Never change regardless of actual tank level

Slow draining:

• Takes 5+ minutes to empty black tank (should be 2-3 minutes)
• Tank doesn’t “whoosh” when valve opens (pressure indicates fullness)
• Toilet paper visible in discharge even after minutes of draining

Persistent odors:

• Smell even with fresh water in tank
• Smell that tank treatments don’t eliminate
• Ammonia smell when you open tank valve
• Odor inside RV even when tanks are “empty”

Reduced capacity:

• Tank fills faster than it used to
• “Full” indicator comes on sooner than before
• Obvious loss of 10+ gallons of capacity

Years since last professional cleaning:

• 3+ years of regular use without struvite removal
• 5+ years of occasional use
• 10+ years since RV was manufactured (yes, even if stored)
• Just bought used RV (don’t trust previous owner’s “maintenance”)

✅ PROBABLY Need It If:

• RV is used full-time (fastest struvite buildup—we see full-timers annually)
• Primary use in hard water areas (Southwest Idaho = VERY hard water, perfect for struvite)
• You’ve used cheap or harsh RV chemicals (accelerates mineralization)
• You’ve experienced frozen tanks (freeze/thaw cycles crack struvite loose but worsen buildup)
• Flush system doesn’t seem as effective anymore

Real talk: If you’re a full-timer or summer at Lake Lowell for weeks at a stretch, you’re building struvite faster than weekend warriors. I’ve got customers who live in their rigs at Ambush Park or out near Eagle—they book annual cleanings like clockwork because they KNOW what builds up in those tanks over 12 months of daily use.

❌ Probably DON’T Need It If:

• RV is brand new (less than 1 year old with minimal use)
• Tanks professionally cleaned within last 12 months
• All sensors work perfectly
• No odor issues whatsoever
• Tanks drain in under 3 minutes
• You’ve only used enzyme/bacteria treatments (these prevent but don’t remove struvite)

When in doubt: Call for inspection. We can assess your tank condition and give honest advice about whether cleaning is needed.

Pricing For Industrial RV Tank Cleaning

Standard Service Rates:

Black Tank Deep Clean:

• $275-375 - Most RVs with moderate buildup
• Includes: Complete vacuum, pressure washing, sensor cleaning, disposal

Grey Tank Deep Clean:

• $225-325 - Usually less buildup than black tanks
• Includes: Complete vacuum, pressure washing, sensor cleaning, disposal

Both Tanks Combo:

• $450-600 - Save $50-100 vs individual pricing
• Most popular option (if you’re doing black, do grey too)

Additional Services:

• $100-150 - Extreme buildup (1”+ struvite, requires extended work)
• $75 - Sanitization treatment (post-cleaning disinfection)
• $50 - Camera inspection with photos/video documentation
• $125 - Fresh water tank cleaning and sanitization
• $50 - Travel fee for locations 15+ miles from Nampa

Package Pricing:

Complete RV Wastewater System Overhaul: $650-850

• Black tank deep clean
• Grey tank deep clean
• Fresh water tank sanitization
• All sensors tested and cleaned
• Valve function verification
• Full photo documentation
• 1-year sensor accuracy guarantee

Compare to:

• Consumer RV tank cleaning products: $50-100 (don’t work on struvite)
• RV dealership “flush service”: $100-150 (not true cleaning)
• Replacement holding tank: $1,500-3,000 + labor
• New tank sensors: $200-400 per tank

ROI: Our cleaning extends tank lifespan by years and restores full functionality for fraction of replacement cost.

Need routine maintenance too? For regular septic tank pumping at your home property, we provide the same professional service—schedule your RV tank cleaning and home septic pumping together to save on travel fees!

Service Process & Scheduling

How It Works:

1. Schedule Appointment:

   • Call (208) 656-5355 or book online
   • Provide RV type, tank sizes, symptoms
   • We’ll schedule 3-4 hour service window

2. We Come To You:

   • Mobile service at your home, storage lot, or RV park
   • Need access to RV’s dump connections
   • Usually park truck within 50-100 feet of RV (we’ve got 100+ feet of hose if needed)

3. Pre-Service Assessment:

   • Discuss tank issues you’ve noticed
   • Test current sensor readings (they probably lie)
   • Optional: Camera inspection to show current buildup (customers love this—morbid curiosity)
   • Confirm scope of work and pricing

4. Cleaning Process:

   • 1-2 hours for typical RV (both tanks)
   • 3-4 hours for severe buildup or large Class A motorhomes
   • You can watch or leave us to work (most people watch for 10 minutes then retreat inside)

I had one customer in Meridian who pulled up lawn chairs and invited his neighbors over to watch. Made a whole afternoon of it. That’s the kind of entertainment value we provide—horrifying yet strangely satisfying.

5. Post-Service Verification:
   • Test all sensors (they actually work now—it’s like magic)
   • Verify complete draining function (listen for that proper “whoosh”)
   • Provide before/after photos if requested
   • Explain ongoing maintenance to prevent future buildup

Service Area:

• Primary: Nampa, Caldwell, Meridian, Boise, Eagle, Star, Kuna, Middleton
• Extended: Mountain Home, Emmett, Homedale (travel fee applies)

We serve the entire Treasure Valley with mobile on-site service—perfect for RVs stored at home or in storage lots.

Scheduling:

• Standard: 7-14 days (best rates)
• Rush: 3-5 days (small upcharge)
• Emergency: Sometimes same-week if schedule allows

Best time of year: Spring (before camping season) or Fall (after camping season). March through May, we’re BUSY with people de-winterizing and prepping for summer. September through November, everyone’s putting their rigs away and wants them clean for storage. Book early if you can—summer weekends fill up fast with fairgrounds and rally season.

Struvite Prevention: Keeping Tanks Clean AFTER Service

Once we’ve removed years of struvite buildup, here’s how to PREVENT it from coming back:

1. Use The Right Chemicals

BEST (Prevents Struvite):

• Enzyme-based treatments (Camco TST, Happy Campers)
• Bacteria-based products (prevents organic buildup)
• Citric acid treatments monthly (dissolves early-stage minerals)

OKAY (Neutral):

• No chemical at all (just water + proper dumping)
• RV-specific enzyme packets

AVOID (Accelerates Struvite):

• Formaldehyde products
• Harsh chemical “blue” treatments
• Bleach or disinfectants regularly
• Water softener salts

2. Proper Dumping Technique

DO:

• Dump when tank is 2/3 to 3/4 full (creates “flush” effect)
• Use plenty of water (keeps solids suspended)
• Close valve quickly after initial “whoosh” finishes
• Add water after dumping (never leave tank completely dry)

DON’T:

• Dump when only 1/4 full (no flushing action)
• Leave valves open at campground (creates “pyramid” buildup)
• Let tank sit full for weeks (accelerates mineralization)

3. Regular Flushing

Monthly (if full-time use):

• Run flush wand for 10-15 minutes
• Use flush system if RV has one
• Add tank rinser chemical occasionally

After each trip (if occasional use):

• Dump tanks completely
• Flush with clean water
• Add enzyme treatment
• Leave 1-2 gallons water + treatment in tanks during storage

4. Annual Maintenance

Even with perfect technique:

• Light-use RVs: Professional cleaning every 3-5 years
• Moderate-use RVs: Professional cleaning every 2-3 years
• Full-time RVs: Professional cleaning annually

Think of it like: You brush your teeth daily (regular flushing), but still need professional cleaning annually (struvite removal).

Curious about costs? Learn more about typical septic pumping costs to understand how our RV tank cleaning pricing compares to standard residential septic services.

FAQ: Industrial RV Tank Cleaning

Q: Will pressure washing damage my RV’s holding tanks?

A: No, when done correctly. Our pressure is adjustable (2000-4000 PSI) based on tank material. Modern RV tanks (fiberglass, polyethylene, ABS) handle pressure washing fine. We’ve cleaned thousands without damage.

Q: Can you fix my tank sensors permanently?

A: Cleaning sensors restores their function if they’re working sensors. If the sensor probes themselves are corroded or broken, cleaning won’t help. About 90% of “broken” sensors just need cleaning.

Q: How long does struvite removal take?

A: Typical RV with both tanks: 1.5-2 hours. Severe buildup or large Class A motorhomes: 3-4 hours. We work until tanks are actually clean, not “clean enough.”

Q: Can I just replace the tanks instead of cleaning?

A: You could, but holding tank replacement costs $1,500-3,000 PER TANK plus labor to remove old and install new. Cleaning is 1/5 the cost and achieves same result.

Q: Will my RV dealership do this?

A: Some do, most don’t. Dealership “tank cleaning” is often just flush wand + chemical treatment ($100-150). True pressure washing requires specialized equipment most don’t have.

Q: What if I have a cassette toilet, not holding tanks?

A: We can clean cassette toilets too! Same struvite problem, smaller scale. Usually $75-125 for cassette deep-clean.

Q: Do you clean boat holding tanks?

A: Yes! Marine sanitation devices (MSDs) get struvite too. Same service, same pricing.

Q: How do I know if I need cleaning or if sensors are just broken?

A: Book inspection ($75, credited toward cleaning if you proceed). We can camera-inspect tanks and test sensors to determine actual issue.

Q: Can you clean tanks if RV is winterized?

A: Yes, but we’ll need to de-winterize tanks first (drain antifreeze). Add $50 for antifreeze removal + re-winterization after cleaning.

Real Customer Results

Case Study 1: The “My Sensors Have Never Worked” Motorhome

Customer: 2015 Class A Diesel Pusher, 50-gallon black tank, sensors always showed FULL.

Before: Customer assumed sensors were broken, planned to replace ($600 parts + labor).

After Our Service: Removed 1/2” struvite coating. Found sensors completely encased in crystallized waste. After cleaning, sensors worked perfectly. Saved $500+.

This was a beautiful rig parked at a storage facility off Can-Ada Road. Owner had gotten three quotes from RV repair shops for sensor replacement. I stuck a camera in there before we started—sensors looked like stalactites in a cave, completely covered. Twenty minutes with the pressure washer and they were shiny as new pennies.

Customer Quote: “I’ve owned this rig 7 years and just assumed the sensors were junk. Turns out they were just buried in… well, you know.”

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Case Study 2: The “Why Does It Smell?” Fifth Wheel

Customer: 2018 Fifth Wheel, persistent ammonia smell even when tanks “empty.”

Before: Tried every chemical treatment available. Smell always came back within days.

After Our Service: Removed significant struvite + old waste trapped in tank crevices. Smell gone immediately, hasn’t returned in 18 months.

Customer Quote: “I cannot believe what you vacuumed out of my ‘clean’ tank. Absolutely disgusting. But the smell is finally gone!”

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Case Study 3: The “It Takes Forever to Drain” Travel Trailer

Customer: 2012 Travel Trailer, black tank took 10+ minutes to drain (should be 2-3 minutes).

Before: Assumed dump valve was broken. Considered replacing entire tank drain assembly.

After Our Service: Found struvite buildup around drain outlet reduced effective diameter by 60%. Pressure washing restored full flow. Tank now drains in under 3 minutes.

Customer Quote: “That ‘whoosh’ sound when I open the valve - I’d forgotten what that sounds like. Like a brand new RV again.”

Schedule Your Industrial RV Tank Cleaning

Stop living with broken sensors, slow drains, and mysterious odors.

Ready to restore your RV tanks? Book our professional RV Wastewater Services for industrial-grade struvite removal that consumer products can’t match.

Contact Qube Septic:

📞 Call: (208) 656-5355

• Mention “RV struvite cleaning” when calling
• We’ll discuss your symptoms and schedule service

🌐 Book Online

• Select “RV Holding Tank Cleaning” service
• Include RV details and issues you’re experiencing

📧 Email: info@qube-construction.com

• Request quote for RV tank cleaning
• Attach photos of RV/tanks if possible

What to Include When Booking:

1. RV type and year (Class A/B/C, fifth wheel, travel trailer)
2. Tank sizes (if known - usually 30-50 gallon black, 40-80 gallon grey)
3. Symptoms (sensor issues, slow drain, odors, reduced capacity)
4. Last time tanks were professionally cleaned (if ever)
5. RV location (your home, storage lot, RV park)

We serve: Nampa, Caldwell, Meridian, Boise, Eagle, Star, Kuna, Middleton, and surrounding Treasure Valley areas.

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Conclusion: Your RV Deserves Better Than “Good Enough”

RV holding tanks are gross. We get it. That’s why most RVers do the bare minimum (dump, rinse, add chemical, forget about it).

But here’s the reality: Minimum maintenance = maximum problems.

Struvite doesn’t care about your blue chemicals or tank wand. It’s crystallized mineral that requires industrial-grade removal. The same equipment we use to clean septic tanks, municipal sewage systems, and industrial wastewater facilities.

Your RV holding tanks deserve the same level of professional service as the septic system in your home.

When you’re ready to:

• ✅ Fix sensors that haven’t worked in years
• ✅ Eliminate odors that treatments can’t touch
• ✅ Restore full tank capacity
• ✅ See what’s ACTUALLY inside your “clean” tanks

Call Qube Septic at (208) 656-5355.

Because once you see what we remove from your tanks, you’ll never trust a simple flush wand again. 🚛

(Fair warning: You might want to avoid the YouTube videos if you’re eating. But if you want to be horrified and fascinated at the same time, they’re worth a watch.)